Stripping and Shade correction of dyed materials

There are possible occasions arise for the correction of the dyed shade. According the substrate(fabric/yarn)
quality and the dyestuff used for dyeing, the following methods may be considered useful:

A) Cellulose:

1) Direct dyes are best removed by an alkaline reduction strip. Some
dyestuffs may require a non-ionic boil off.

2) Vat dyes are very difficult to remove, usually a strong reduction strip
with caustic and hydros and strong organic stripping agent (leveling/dispersing agents).
are required. Mostly the treatment has to be done at 80°C or more.

3) Sulfur dyes can be removed partially in depth by treating the fabric
with sodium sulfide at 80°C or with caustic and hydros. You can make a judicial
combination of 2 treatments to strip off maximum color by treating the
fabric with sodium hypochlorite 3 to 5 g/l followed by a reduction strip
with caustic and hydros.

4) Naphthols: Either oxidizing agents (hypo) or reducing agent would
work as stripping agents. But case to case this would defer. Lab trial
is essential before finalizing anything on bulk treatment.

5) Reactive: Either hypochlorite or hydros or caustic hydros would
work. Before doing bulk stripping one has to test the suitability. Most
2 treatments are required. Hypo treatment followed by caustic hydros or
Caustic hydros treatment followed by hypo treatment would work.

B) Polyamide (nylon) stripping:

A reduction stripping in alkaline medium with a non-ionic dispresing agent
yields better result.

Light shades may be stripped by a mild boil off in the presence of
a non-ionic dispersing agent.

Deep shades and pre-metalized dyes may be stripped by an oxidizing
bleach with sodium chlorite in acid medium.


C) Polyester:

Disperse dyes may be stripped by boiling off with a suitable carrier
and dispersing agent.

Azo type disperse dyes may be stripped off by reduction method (caustic
and hydros).

FABRICS FROM RICE STRAW AND CHICKEN FEATHERS

Organic Fabrics

After organic food and Fair Trade cosmetics comes "sustainable" fashion. Scientists are investigating natural sources for biodegradable artificial fabrics made from raw material such as chicken feathers and rice straw.

As Katharine Hamnett, the iconic 1980s designer, prepares for the launch in spring of her organic, environmentally friendly fashion range, the idea of ethically sourced sustainable fashion is starting to take hold. Ham-nett's online store, which she has sold her pounds 1m house in Highgate, north London, to launch, features designs made in cotton grown organically without pesticides.

The production process spares the thousands of farmers who she says commit suicide after falling into debt to the pesticide companies or whose health is damaged by the chemicals. "I'm not prepared to make a living at the expense of those at the bottom of the supplychain," Hamnett said. "I want to prove it can be done so there are no more excuses."

Scientists at the University of Nebraska plan to go one stage further by developing fabrics from agricultural waste products to replace synthetic materials derived from byproducts of petroleum. In place of nylon and acrylic we could see "chicken wool" and "rice cotton". Millions of tons of chicken feathers and rice straw (the stem of the plant left after the grains are harvested) are discarded every year.

Research presented to the American Chemical Society conference in San Francisco yesterday shows that fabrics made from them could become an abundant, cheap and renewable alternative to nylon and acrylic.

The chicken feather fabric will resemble wool and the rice straw fabric will be similar to cotton or linen. Fibres derived from chicken feathers would be an improvement over wool, the researchers say.

Rice straw, composed of cellulose, has already been made into fibres, which could be spun into fabrics similar to cotton or linen using common textile machinery.

Both fabrics are still in the early stages of development but the researchers say they could be a boon to rice and chicken farmers as well as being kind to the environment. Yiqi Yang, professor of textile science at Nebraska University, who led the research, said: "We hope the research presented here will stimulate interest in using agricultural byproducts as textile fibres which would add value to agricultural crops and make the fibre industry more sustainable."

No major effort is currently being made to find alternative sources of fibres to satisfy increasing global demand. Two years ago Professor Yang and colleagues developed a method to turn corn husks into fabrics but those based on feathers and straw could have better properties, they say, suitable for use in carpets, cars and buildings. They would cost less and have superior properties to their synthetic counterparts, the researchers say.

Laundry Care Guide for all fibers

These fabric care suggestions are provided as a general guide for the benefit of our visitors. Because materials and dyes vary between manufacturers and products, for best results we recommend that you test a sample before washing or dry cleaning the entire garment.
Acetate: Dry clean only.

Acrylic: Machine wash warm using warm water, softener may be added during the final rinse cycle. Machine dry using low temperature, remove promptly when done.

Cotton: Machine wash warm, tumble dry low. Use cool iron.

Metallic Cotton: Machine wash warm, delicate cycle, tumble dry low,. Cool iron may be used.

Fleece: Machine wash warm and remove quickly to avoid matting. Hang to dry; do not use dryer.

Linen: Dry clean is recommended and retains the original crisp finish to the fabric. Hand wash in mild soap no chlorine bleach dry by laying flat on clean non-colored towel. Note: Hand washing softens the feel of the linen which is sometimes preferred.

Lyocell: Lyocell garments may be either machine washable and dryable or drycleanable. Read the label. Washable lyocell has the strength and ease of care of other easy-care fabrics. Machine wash and dry at low temperature. Remove from dryer as soon as the garment is dry. If ironing is required, use a moderately warm iron.

Lycra: Hand or machine wash in lukewarm water. Never use chlorine bleach onany fabric containing Lycra. Either drip dry or machine dry using lowtemperature settings.

Lycra Velvet: Hand or machine wash in lukewarm water. Never use chlorine bleach on any fabric containing Lycra. Either drip dry or machine dry using low temperature settings.

Microfibers: Acrylic, nylon and polyester microfibers are machine washable, machine dryable or drycleanable Follow the instructions for washing fabrics consisting of these individual fibers.

Nylon: Most items made from nylon can be machined washed and tumbled dried at low temperatures. Use warm water and add a fabric softener to the final rinse cycle. To minimize static electricity use a dyer sheet when machine drying. Remove articles from the dyer as soon as the tumbling cycle is completed. If ironing is required, use a warm iron.

Polyester: Use warm water add fabric softener to final rinse, machine dry low and remove promptly from dryer. If ironing is needed use a moderate warm setting. All polyesters can be dry cleaned.

Polyolefin: Most items can be washed or dry-cleaned. Most stains can be readily be removed by wiping, using lukewarm water and detergent. If fabric is machine washed, it should be line dried or tumbled dried with gentle or no heat. Do not iron.

Rayon: Dry cleaning is recommended. Although hand wash in lukewarm water is okay. No chlorine bleach allowed. Lay flat on a clean non-colored towel to dry.

Silk: Dry cleaning is preferred. Hand washing is possible if mild soap and lukewarm water is used. Laying flat on a clean non-colored towel to dry.

Spandex: Hand or machine wash in lukewarm water. Never use chlorine bleach on any fabric containing Lycra. Either drip dry or machine dry using low temperature settings.

Suede: Recommendation is dry cleaning. Although Machine wash gentile cycle is allowed.

Triacetate: Pleated garments are best hand laundered. Most other garments containing 100% triacetate can be machine washed. If ironing is needed, a high temperature setting may be used. Articles containing triacetate require little care due mainly to the fiber's resistance to high temperature.

Woodblocks: As with all hand-printed fabrics, we suggest you do the following: prewash by hand with mild detergent and rinse until water runs clear. Dry flat. Additional color transfer from dark to lights may occur when sewn and washed together. We suggest you take this into account when designing your projects. We hope you enjoy the results when you use this ancient fabric handicraft.

Wool & Suiting: Recommendation is for dry cleaning. Can be spot cleaned with a damp sponge.

Perfection via Imperfection

I want 100% lab to bulk reproducibility. I have the following facilities:

1. For cost saving and matching price requirement of the buyer, I will buy only the optimum quality of yarn or fabric.


2. Enzyme desizing is a costly operation. I used to do either acid desizing (which I consider it as two in one operation, i.e., desizing and deminaralization) or no desizing.


3. I will buy only the best priced auxilary and basic chemicals to save cost. If I can get better price from somebody, I will switch over to the new supplier.


4. Of course the machineries were purchased 10 years before. I know that there are some leakages here and there. What if? This is the case with every body in the field.


5. I am getting abundant water from out side wells. More that 10 wells are in my list. If there is a crowd in one well, then the lorry driver will go to the next one and supply water at any cost. Of course I know that there will be some small variations of 100 to 200 ppm hardness and TDS variations between wells.


6. I have increased the number of machineries by about 10% last year. The boiler is so efficient and supplies steam. Only at times, we could reach a boiling temperature for scouring or soaping. But we are managing however.

The new dyeing master is not so good and he takes about 20 to 24 hours for completing each batch. He could not take even a single batch without making additions in dyeing or sometimes redyeing. If you know somebody, please help me. I want a man who can take dyeing 100% lab to bulk exact???????

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Disappearing Redder Tone after Enzymatic Biopolishing

It's something mysterious. They are using a good dyestuff (RGB's) for dyeing a medium olive green shade. The combination Yellow, Red and Blue RGB, where red is a very small per centage, but a toner to reach that particular shade.

They have dyed the shade and reached the tone and depth. Soaped throughly and after soaping they have collected the sample and found still matching to the shade.

To their surprise, after bio-polishing with a standard enzyme, they found that the red has substantially gone out and the shade was off.

Can any one suggest, what may be the reason for this tonal change?

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